IN PICTURES - Little known in the West, Hunan Province contains a single forest in more ways than one. Hall of standing stones, the heavenly garden gave ideas to American director dreamlike scenery of the planet Pandora. From dream to reality, wide angle on the Zhangjiajie National Park.
A fabulous stone forest, as if suspended between heaven and earth, the heart of Hunan Province (which literally means "south of the lake"). The Chinese themselves were unaware of the presence of such a natural treasure to the 70s It took perseverance painter Wu Guanzhong Chinese for a disclosure of the magnificence of these places only by the grace of his clever line to make authenticity as grandiose landscapes. At about 1,200 miles west of Beijing, and a little less than Shanghai, Zhangjiajie Natural Forest Park begins to welcome the first Western travelers attracted by the images of 3D blockbuster Avatar . Indeed, the breathtaking landscapes of this sci-fi by James Cameron has fired the imagination of millions of viewers. To find the original of this unusual setting, so you have to get to the center-west of the Middle Kingdom, Wulingyuan District, Hunan Province.
For 300 million years, erosion carved this prodigious mass that spans nearly 220 square kilometers, where over 3,000 karst peaks soar skyward like sentinels eying the world below ... Exactly , flowing down a river in a canyon 400 meters wide. His name, River Whip Now comes into its own when the peak that dominates, standing like a sword, glows at sunset. The warm soil of a tropical day runs into the cold air of a night that looks cool. The weather phenomenon causes a thick mist like a mattress.
Since that canyon begins the discovery of the site by public transport ...! For if Westerners are rare in frequent places, the Chinese, themselves, flock there in droves.A big surprise in such a blank space, wild and unique. From a parking lot - to the extent of this huge country - a cable car (the longest in the world), lift (the highest in the world) and a bus service (the most painful ...) pour a steady stream of local tourists that only go in tight and noisy groups behind a guide with megaphone. Parapets, waiting, turnstiles, corridors arrowings ground ... Everything is designed to harness this human tide.
Failing to ease remains the option of climbing to the top on foot. Or the obligation to swallow 3,878 steps. For lazy, palanquins climb up there. Holders, a long pipe in his mouth, waiting for the barge crouched under a makeshift shelter. In the darkness, only the dry sound of mahjong tiles laid with fever shows their presence. Under a stormy sky before the cloud was bursting, it was decided to share the cable (the longest ...) which, as the elevator (the highest ...) is registered auGuinness records. For the record, the Bailong Lift descends 330 meters at a speed of 3 meters per second. It can carry 1,380 people per hour in a back-and-forth incessant. A piece of technology that the Chinese are crazy, which express by "Oh" and "Ah!" Perched high. On arrival at the top, some hostels run by farmers provide food and shelter to amateur photographers as lovers of wilderness that may, the next day, at dawn contemplate, and away from the crowds, panoramas wonderful that the park.
For 300 million years, erosion carved this prodigious mass that spans nearly 220 square kilometers, where over 3,000 karst peaks soar skyward like sentinels eying the world below ... Exactly , flowing down a river in a canyon 400 meters wide. His name, River Whip Now comes into its own when the peak that dominates, standing like a sword, glows at sunset. The warm soil of a tropical day runs into the cold air of a night that looks cool. The weather phenomenon causes a thick mist like a mattress.
Since that canyon begins the discovery of the site by public transport ...! For if Westerners are rare in frequent places, the Chinese, themselves, flock there in droves.A big surprise in such a blank space, wild and unique. From a parking lot - to the extent of this huge country - a cable car (the longest in the world), lift (the highest in the world) and a bus service (the most painful ...) pour a steady stream of local tourists that only go in tight and noisy groups behind a guide with megaphone. Parapets, waiting, turnstiles, corridors arrowings ground ... Everything is designed to harness this human tide.
Failing to ease remains the option of climbing to the top on foot. Or the obligation to swallow 3,878 steps. For lazy, palanquins climb up there. Holders, a long pipe in his mouth, waiting for the barge crouched under a makeshift shelter. In the darkness, only the dry sound of mahjong tiles laid with fever shows their presence. Under a stormy sky before the cloud was bursting, it was decided to share the cable (the longest ...) which, as the elevator (the highest ...) is registered auGuinness records. For the record, the Bailong Lift descends 330 meters at a speed of 3 meters per second. It can carry 1,380 people per hour in a back-and-forth incessant. A piece of technology that the Chinese are crazy, which express by "Oh" and "Ah!" Perched high. On arrival at the top, some hostels run by farmers provide food and shelter to amateur photographers as lovers of wilderness that may, the next day, at dawn contemplate, and away from the crowds, panoramas wonderful that the park.
At 4 am, Chen Hu Yke awaits a lucky few at the end of a flat rutted path. After several kilometers in 4 x 4, the old hunter cuts the engine and invites passengers to follow on steep paths directly above the gorge. Here, over railing to sign or crowd. Its not one puts in his order not to damage the edges of rice fields. Then we need to get off and on again with the help of hands when tilting the path defies balance. In a very old Chinese book on aesthetics, it is written: "To the extent the talent of each depends on whether riding with the wind and the clouds" ... We're there. Providential flat stone invites to rest, exhausted and sweating, before the show begins. The rays of the rising sun ablaze gradually immensity.
Firs, yews, rhododendrons, wild roses, trees with handkerchiefs, spruce, hemlock, ferns, mosses and mushrooms protean: 3,000 plant species in total - including 600 species of trees - thrive in this labyrinthine ecosystem. In particular the iconic ginkgo biloba, nicknamed "Tree of Forty Crowns". Orientals revered for its exceptional properties, this archaic survivor of the dinosaurs originated in China. True botanical curiosity, it is able to survive high doses of radioactivity. For example, one year after the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Japan, he was the only tree to have leaves again. Excellent firewall, ginkgo also has the power to protect fire. The species is very present in the park of Zhangjiajie, has contributed to the classification of places in the national park. A label that Unesco institutionalized by placing it on the list of World Heritage Site in 1992.
The park is also a providential sanctuary for many animal species, including rhesus monkeys, the cry hilarious, and representatives of a more confidential bestiary like civet, tragopan red plumage, Chinese water deer, Bear Tibet or the clouded leopard.The latter, hunted by poachers for their fur and bones for traditional medicine, is facing extinction. However, it continues to terrify the few people who live on the plateaus of Wulingyuan, Miao mostly.
This is on top of the peaks that young people from the ethnic group of mountain courtship during an exchange of poems sung. In a clear voice, the intonations contender use the nightingale to proclaim its languorous messages. Miao songs that breed for tourists amazed. To satisfy its many visitors, the community seems to have sold his soul a bit. And confused tradition and folklore. As soon as a bus driver opens the floodgates to the flood of curious women strike a pose. For a few yuan, they offer clothing or adornments junk and their admirers griment the day which, in turn, pose for a photo posted in the wake of social networks.
After discussion with the guide, a step can easily improvise in a village off the beaten track. That of Ludongshan admires first from the top of the road. With the aplomb of a mountain range with peaks sharp amid the rice fields, the curves of a river draw in pen symbol of yin and yang. Always located near a water source, Miao communities organize themselves in accordance with their environment, according to the precepts of feng shui. Reconcile the visible flow - like water - and invisible - like wind - is a promise of good health, welfare or prosperity for the occupants. Well that feng shui was banned under Mao Zedong, Miao never ceased to scrupulously respect the rules of discipline, despite the persecutions of the communist government. The traditional wooden houses are secured to the slopes, served by a beam paths and steep steps that villagers use it every day. A paved road climbs sharply. On the terrace of a large house, three old women converse. They are neighbors and their day's work finished, share a moment of respite. It is surprising how many women in this ethnic group are all ... small. The opportunity for them as for us, the great West, to share a laugh.
Back to Zhangjiajie for other bells and whistles ... Since Pagoda Tianzi, the sixth floor, where a handful of burning incense before a Buddha chubby, the 360 degrees is an endless horizon of rocky peaks emerging from caves. An advancing army, ready to fight. The sky is the game. Huge clouds moutonnants wander in the garden of stones.They burst and tear on the sharp peaks before disintegrating into long milky scarves.Sixty streams, rivers and streams flow in abundance and fall from dizzying heights. We understand that they have inspired director James Cameron. Imagining the natural setting of the planet Pandora, where the Na'vi people would evolve, the American director instructed the photographer Eric Hanson to travel the world in search of landscapes of exception. He unearthed here, deep in China. Zhangjiajie has since dissociated from Avatar. Nod to the worldwide success of the film, the Chinese government has even renamed the heavenly Column spectacular peak rising to 1,074 meters, Mount "Hallelujah" from the name of this floating mountain from which the avatar Jake Sully, the hero blockbuster, rushed into the void, astride his winged dragon.Three million tourists flock there annually ever since, just to dream of riding his Na'vi Toruk ...
TRAVEL BOOK
Helpful
Formalities necessary visa (approximately € 105). Information from the Chinese Embassy (01.79.97.03.39; www.visaforchina.org ). Time difference: + 6 hours in summer, winter + 7 h. Change: providing euros and yuan because once out of the big cities, ATMs are scarce. 1 € = 8.40 CNY.
Getting there
Air France (3654; www.airfrance.fr ) present in China since 1966 and associated with KLM. Both companies operate 88 weekly flights from Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Amsterdam-Schiphol to 9 destinations: Shanghai, Hong Kong (served by A380), but also Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Hangzhou, Xiamen, Taipei and finally Wuhan, the One of the gateways to the Hunan, served three times a week live from Paris.Depending on the type of aircraft, Air France offers 4 cabins including the new First and Business headquarters, which becomes a fully flat bed. The round trip economy class is offered to Wuhan from 990 €.
Organize your trip
With The House of China (01.40.51.95.00; www.maisondelachine.fr ) and its route"Hunan bells and whistles" to live in small groups. Besides finding the park Zhangjiajie and landscapes unique mountain in the world, the circuit goes through Shaoshan, the birthplace of Mao Zedong, and the ancient cities of Fenghuang and Hongjiang. 13 days / 10 nights full board (except 2 meals) from Paris: from € 2,890 per person. Includes all transportation, tours and entertainment, services unaccompagnateur sinologist from Paris and speaking local guides.
In the park of Zhangjiajie
In the spring, in the rainy season, to be discovered this park. It is located 30 km north of the prefecture-level city of Zhangjiajie, where a shuttle bus provides access to the entrance to the site in a little over an hour. These buses are often crowded, it is best to hire a taxi for just 10 € per person. The entrance ticket to the park costs 30 € and is valid for 3 days. Once up, get remettreau bus service that connects the different loop panoramas. To enjoy the scenery without the crowds, sleep on mountaintops in hostels run by local farmers.In the park of Zhangjiajie
Listed in the Huan
Shaoshan, the house where the Great Helmsman was born in 1893 in the estate office and showroom covered with yellowed family portraits on the walls, we learn here the first rural cell Communist Party of China was founded in June 1925.
Fenghuang, Little Venice of ancient China. The city, whose name means "city of phoenix" is primarily the home of the Miao ethnic group. Its architecture, remarkable mess of stilt houses, bridges and gateways, clinging to the steep banks of the Tuo Jiang River, dates back to the Ming and Qing dynasties. At night, light strings redesign the facades and streets resound crowded and noisy karaoke.
In the park. Hostel Mengpa Kezhan:
basic comfort but friendly welcome. Ideal to watch the sunrise over the stone forest shrouded in mist (in the village for a few yuan, Chen Hu Yke guide you to totally isolated spots).Staying there
In the District of Zhangjiajie, Zhangjiajie. Xi Jie Bu(53, rue Xi Bu), a small boutique hotel with a spa and mountain views. About 58 € a night.
International standard for the Pullman Zhangjiajie ( www.pullmanhotels.com ) which has the double advantage to meet adorable French hostess and enjoy European dishes (and coffee!). From 100 € per night.
A Fenghuang. The Phoenix Grand Hotel
In the District of Zhangjiajie, Zhangjiajie. Xi Jie Bu(53, rue Xi Bu), a small boutique hotel with a spa and mountain views. About 58 € a night.
International standard for the Pullman Zhangjiajie ( www.pullmanhotels.com ) which has the double advantage to meet adorable French hostess and enjoy European dishes (and coffee!). From 100 € per night.
A Fenghuang. The Phoenix Grand Hotel
(www.chinahotelsreservation.com ). A little madness in the decor both baroque and quirky, all in sizes XXL! This hotel fits perfectly to the tastes of Chinese who flock there. € 200 a night; sometimes discounted to € 50.
EatingIn the park, the eateries that abound are very expensive. It helps to plan a picnic. The curious who want to learn the spicy Hunan Xiang Xi will test the Yin Xiang, renowned restaurant situated at the exit of the cave of the Dragon, Gao Wun street in the district of Wulingyuan.
In the city of the same name, the impressive Fenghuang bet on ethnic Miao and waitresses are dressed like queens serving customers 100% Chinese. Very folk, this restaurant is in the old town at the foot of Nan Hua bridge. € 55 for 6 people.
The flat
Mass tourism Chinese version has something daunting one Westerner. Even in a province as rich in natural gems.
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