In the cathedral forests of California

IN PICTURES - giant sequoia and bristlecone pines deer California is home to both the largest and the oldest living beings in the world. Meet the champs.
The redwoods are monuments. A bit like at home, Notre-Dame de Paris.Americans still like to think that their country is young go there as a pilgrimage to see the giants who lived there for so long. Motionless and silent in their forests, they belong to the long time of history, all these ancient civilizations whose offspring have landed in California since the mid-nineteenth century.

To admire, we must move away from the Pacific coast. Take due east to the Sierra Nevada. It is in this mountain that the giant sequoias live. The largest of them is the biggest tree in the world: 1487 cubic meters of wood! Further east, in the White Mountains, which rise to 4,342 meters above sea level, bristlecone pines push, which are the oldest trees in the world. The oldest of all is more than 5,000 years: he already had five centuries of existence when was built the pyramid of Cheops.

To engage in this little exercise time would be lost quickly head, for a generation of redwoods, it is 3000 years. No one can say how many thousands of stretches of time old bristlecone pine trees, as these trees seem to have discovered the secret of immortality. But while the old pine trees survive in suffering, the redwoods remain firm, solid, straight, insensitive to the breeze, indifferent to the attacks of fire and lightning.Faced with decades of drought and floods, they hold out. They operate in a different scale, somewhere between the time stones and men. Is it necessary to specify that it does not feel much beside them? Besides, what to say without taking the risk of sounding as hollow as an old trunk while empty? "! That is cool," says a boy came with his dad admire the Colossi Park Calaveras: that's cool. It's true, it's still a bit more than that, and should read John Muir to approach the truth of the old trees. "Trees and men: we travel together through the Milky Way," wrote the American naturalist after a tremendous storm that passed in a kind of ecstasy, clinging to the top of a tall pine in the Sierra Nevada .

"Before the storm day, it had never occurred to me that trees are travelers, in the true sense. It's true they do not go very far, but our little trips for us, here and there, are ultimately not much more than a tree swaying in the wind. "Over of their existence, the redwoods perform a great time travel is the great mystery of these forests. In 1894, John Muir published The Mountains of California, the fruit of his life as a hermit in the mountains. The book was a huge success. Muir said that there majesty of giant sequoias was equaled that of the Yosemite Valley. Under his pen, we could not find finer tribute because, more than any other place, John Muir celebrated this beautiful valley.



This is largely because of him that she has become a top tourist attraction in the United States. Today, they built roads and installed there parking: during the day, traffic is such that there are plugs. But with the end of the day, the car flows dried up.Sometimes a straggler bus stops along the Merced River. Tourists descend, take some pictures and chat then leave for the next point. What have they seen in such a short time? They should have these tourists in a hurry, take the example of the American writer. Sit on the tree trunk rests in balance over the waves, hold eyes and ears, breathing, full nose scents of the forest. Observed that the sun rising from the other side of the mountains, a light breath of air began to ascend the river. They would have admired a giant redwood young waving gracefully in the wind, while at his feet poplars happily waving their branches. Shaking in every way their light leaves, they fill the air smelling sap, slightly acid, which is necessary in the saturated with the scents of the forest atmosphere.

After the valley, another necessary step to Yosemite's Mariposa Grove. This is one of the most famous mountains of giant sequoias, because its protection is guaranteed by the American government for 150 years. June 30, 1864, in full Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln signed into effect the first act of the story safeguard the data of a natural heritage, Yosemite Grant Act, which definitively classified the valley and large redwoods. The tree already needed to be protected.



Because, unlike its cousin the redwood (Sequoia sempervirens), which grows by the millions along the Pacific Ocean, the giant sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum), is relatively rare. Difficult indeed to estimate the number: Wayne Harrison, a scientist specializing in fire ecology, ensured for almost thirty years in the mountains of Park Calaveras. According to him, the number of giant sequoias, the trunk of which measures more than 30 centimeters at breast height, is approximately 100 000 Smaller trees would be a few hundred thousand. Redwood, which needs forest fires to breed, suffered from the fight against fires conducted successfully for a century and a half. It's only been forty years since the Rangers and scientists working in the parks again light fires to promote the regeneration of undergrowth: not enough to allow the emergence of a new cohort of young shoots.

Sequoia does not breed easily ... It fits pretty easily though: in the nineteenth century it was fashionable to plant in the properties of France or England. So today, the largest trees in Europe are often giant sequoias of California. But, naturally, this tree grows only on the western slopes of the mountains of the Sierra Nevada, at an altitude between 800 and 2700 meters. There, 400 kilometers long, there are between 67 and 75 beds. In the far north, near Lake Tahoe, the smallest has only 6 of these giants. It is in the south lie the largest concentrations: in the Sequoia National Park, they are impressive.



American textbooks explain that giant redwood can reach 310 feet, exceeding the height of the flame of the Statue of Liberty. Translated into French, it gives more than 94 meters high, causing the top of the large tree about twenty meters from the second floor of our Eiffel Tower. Not bad for a plant! Yet this is not strictly speaking its height is the giant redwood its international reputation. In this field, he was defeated by his cousin, redwood evergreen coast. Old redwoods are also often scalped, surmounted by a dry stump which was their peak. But underneath, it's a crown of solid, thick and green branches. Despite the injuries that occur over centuries, these trees remain surprisingly robust: it's simple, they never stop growing. And when it's not in height, it is wide.

Stephen Sillett, a famous American botanist for its comprehensive measures of large redwoods, said the President, one of the largest trees in the world, annually produces about one cubic meter of wood, the equivalent of a good-sized tree in our countries: a significant achievement on the part of an elderly individual to 3240 years. "In fact, it seems that there is no particular limit to the life of a redwood," says Wayne Harrison. In nature, what kills these big trees, so these are external causes. Over the centuries, wildfires wear their natural defenses: thus sees some very old trees within the burned trunk, empty like a chimney, but still arriving, somehow, maintain a vital link between their roots and their ultimate branch.

Others were so well dug by the flames that fifty people can fit in the trunk. They still cling to life. Soil erosion is another fierce opponent of redwoods, because their roots grow only 90 inches from the soil surface. When one of them finally fell, its massive trunk breaks like a china plate and then home. No one insect feeds on the wood, rot does not seem to affect him. The barrels dotting the redwood groves lie there for centuries. Over time, they end up looking like stones.



Besides the fire, wind and rain, the man was another external factor destruction of the giant redwoods. It started in 1852 It was four years after the discovery of the first gold nugget. The world rushed to California. Originally from Connecticut, Augustus Dowd had arrived in San Francisco from 1848 In the spring of 1852, he had settled in the mining town of Murphys, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. He worked on behalf of Captain WH Hanford, Union Water Company, which built canals to supply piped water golden hills researchers. Hunter, he provided fresh meat to the workers. The story goes that one day while chasing a wounded grizzly, he fell off in front of a gigantic tree. He managed to persuade his companions to accompany him to the mountain to see the thing. We measured the trunk more than 30 feet in diameter! Then let the tree to look for gold.But the respite was short-lived. For gold miners, ready to fire on all cylinders as long as it generates large profits already had big plans for the redwoods ... A year later, Captain WH Hanford climbed back into the mountains at the head a small group of miners.Following the path taken by the hunter, they came out on the big tree. And then, using drills, they began to shoot.

These vandals intended to exhibit in all capitals. They made an oven. But greed and stupidity did other victims among the giant redwoods. To entertain the pioneers of ecotourism, tunnels were dug into the trunks of trees could drive through the horse, as it was fun !, it killed them. The trunk of the Tree Discovery is turned, the Augustus Dowd tree, bowling alley. Not far away we tore the bark of another giant, was given a grandiose nickname and was exhibited at the Crystal Palace in London, the end of an avenue of sphinxes. The bark is gone, Crystal Palace went up in flames, the trunk of the tree is still standing upright, although death in the forest of Calaveras. He kept pummeled saw and spade of his executioners and we want to cry in front of the victim of human stupidity.



Logging companies were concerned with the formidable wooden stock accumulated by these giants. But loggers soon perceived that the redwoods were not profitable, it saved them. Meanwhile, Gearloose tourism were hindered in their delusional creativity by authentic love of forests: John Muir, always him, and others, who were indignant in the columns of the international press, the fate of the large trees. Yet they continued to turn forests into parks. In Sequoia National Park, was installed in the middle of a massive ample parking with petrol station and supermarket. For twenty years, park managers do backtracked. The supermarket Sequoia Park became a museum, the gas station is gone, the car is more discreet. Large trees found some peace, but already another threat looms on the horizon. It is called climate change. Scientists multiply the measurements and calculations to try to understand its impact on large trees.Meanwhile, the giant sequoias grow quietly in the background of their valleys. Nothing can wish them the best.
TRAVEL LOG


Before you go

Beautifully illustrated and comprehensive, the site of the Tourist Board of California(0.810.322.400; www.visitcalifornia.fr ) is a valuable tool.
Getting there

Air France (36.54; www.airfrance.fr ). In Los Angeles, 17 flights per week from 975 €. In San Francisco, 12 flights per week from € 982. The company now offers on its website a travelogue interactive: Travel by Air France. Addresses key witnesses, beautiful images ... a fresh look at the top destinations of Air France.
Organiserson trip

Travelers in the United States (01.84.17.57.96; www.voyageursdumonde.fr ) offers a journey of eight days / 6 nights to explore California and the giant sequoias. On the agenda: the Yosemite National Park and San Francisco. From € 2,400 per person from Paris.
Where to see the trees?

To see the bristlecone pines (Bristlecone Pines) towards the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, itself located in the Inyo National Forest ( www.fs.fed.us ).

To see giant sequoias: Mariposa Grove, Yosemite National Park ( www.nps.gov ) is one of the most famous mountain ranges, with those of Calaveras Big Trees State Park (www.parks.ca.gov ). But it is in the mountains of Sequoia National Park (www.nps.gov ) found some of the largest trees in the world, as President. The best season is undoubtedly the spring.


Our selection of hotels

   To see the bristlecone pine Bristlecone Pine Forest, Town of Mammoth is relatively well located, about 3 hours drive from the White Mountains and old pines.The skiing busy winter is quieter in the summer. There is the Sierra Nevada Resort and Spa(001.760.934.25.15; thesierranevadaresort.com ), a sort of upscale motel. Night from 150 €. One can also choose to stay in Lone Pine, a town which had its heyday in the 50s, when Hollywood studios used the surrounding landscape as a backdrop. Some motels including the Dow Villa (001.800.824.93.17; www.dowvillamotel.com ), which housed the great stars of the 50s: John Wayne, Errol Flynn or Robert Mitchum ... From 85 €.

To see the giant sequoias of Yosemite. The best address to Yosemite is Ahwanee. Built in the 20s, it offers a magnificent view of the Yosemite Valley. From 355 € during the summer. Another historic hotel in Yosemite's Wawona. The colonial-style buildings are lovely but the rooms deserve some of the costs. The hotel is located twenty minutes from Mariposa Grove, the finest massive redwoods of Yosemite. From 115 €. A single contact for both hotels (001.801.559.48.84; www.yosemitepark.com ).

To see the redwoods Calaveras. The charming town of Murphys is the destination not to be missed. Born during the gold rush, it is fast becoming a mecca of vines in California.The Victoria Inn (001.209.728.83.33; www.victoriainn-murphys.com ) is a great place, charming and very well located close to the main street. From 98 €.

Our favorite restaurants

A Mammoth. Rafter (www.raftersmammoth.com ) friendly atmosphere and solid American food. Around 35 €.

In Yosemite: disappointing restoration, especially in large hotels to the park. A Murphys this small town filled with good places. Among those that should not be missed: the Murphys Hotel ( www.murphyshotel.com ) is the oldest building in town. The bar comes alive at night: ambiance 100% USA!

At Grounds ( www.groundsrestaurant.com ), we find an American quality food, around 40 €. The V ( vrestaurantandbar-murphys. com ). Inventive cuisine and delicious cocktails. It is 50 €. Finally, in Roquefort ( www.roquefortmurphys.com ),salads are delicious and lovely terrace. Around € 30. For delicious cupcakes to go to Lila and Sage ( www.lilaandsage.com ) whose pastries resemble small pop sculptures.
Recommended Reading

John Muir. The language of this writer that mixes like no other scientific accuracy and poetic verve, is superb. If possible, read it in English. The Wild Muir. Twenty-Two of John Muir's Greatest Adventures, Yosemite Conservancy, 210 p. 9 €.

The Mountains of California, The Modern Library, 280 p., € 10.50. Otherwise, in French:A Summer in the Sierra, Hoëbeke 340 pages, 17 €..



Backpacker's Guide California, 14,95 €. Backpacker Guide National Parks of the American West, € 14.95. For a comprehensive guide massive giant sequoias of the Sierra Nevada in English: A Guide to the Sequoia Groves of California by Dwight Willard, Yosemite Association, 125 pp, 12€